Building & Materials

LED vs Halogen, Incandescent & CFL: Efficacy, Lifespan and Real Energy Cost

Updated 8 June 2026 · 10 min read

An LED uses roughly one-sixth the electricity of an equivalent incandescent and lasts up to 25 times longer. This guide shows you the formula, a worked Singapore electricity-cost example, and a comparison table so you can calculate exactly how much each bulb type costs you per year — and whether an upgrade pays for itself.

~6×
Less electricity than incandescent for the same light output (lumens)
25 000 h
Typical LED rated lifespan, vs 1 000 h for incandescent
~S$28
Approximate annual electricity saving per LED replacing a 60 W incandescent (see worked example)

The right unit: lumens, not watts

Watts measure power consumed, not light produced. Lumens measure the light output you actually see. The ratio — lumens per watt, written lm/W — is called efficacy. A higher efficacy means you get more light for less electricity.

When manufacturers label a bulb "60 W equivalent", they mean it produces roughly the same lumens as a 60 W incandescent (about 800 lm). The actual wattage of a modern LED doing that job is around 8–10 W.

Bulb type Typical efficacy (lm/W) Approximate actual watts for ~800 lm Rated lifespan Dimmable?
Incandescent 10–15 lm/W ~60 W ~1 000 h Yes (standard dimmer)
Halogen 15–25 lm/W ~42–50 W ~2 000–5 000 h Yes (standard dimmer)
CFL (compact fluorescent) 45–75 lm/W ~13–15 W ~6 000–15 000 h Only if labelled "dimmable"
LED 80–140 lm/W ~8–10 W ~15 000–25 000 h Only if labelled "dimmable"
Note

Efficacy ranges vary by product quality. Budget LEDs can fall below 80 lm/W; premium high-CRI LEDs sometimes exceed 120 lm/W. Check the packaging or the Energy Label (Singapore's mandatory NEA energy label) for the specific product you are buying.

The formula: annual electricity cost per bulb

The calculation is straightforward. Two steps:

That is all there is to it. Everything else is just plugging in your assumptions — which you should always state explicitly so anyone can verify or adapt the numbers.

Worked example: living-room ceiling light

Suppose you have a single ceiling light point in your living room. You use it for about 5 hours a day. You are deciding between a 60 W incandescent (legacy fitting) and a 9 W LED that produces the same ~800 lm.

Assumptions

Incandescent

kWh/year = 60 W × 5 h/day × 365 days ÷ 1 000 = 109.5 kWh/year

Cost/year = 109.5 × S$0.2972 = ≈ S$32.54/year

LED

kWh/year = 9 W × 5 h/day × 365 days ÷ 1 000 = 16.4 kWh/year

Cost/year = 16.4 × S$0.2972 = ≈ S$4.87/year

Saving

Annual electricity saving per bulb: S$32.54 − S$4.87 = ≈ S$27.67/year

If a quality LED costs, say, S$8–12 at retail, it pays back its purchase price within the first year in electricity savings alone — before you even count the fact that you will replace the incandescent roughly 15–25 times in the LED's lifetime.

Tip

To run the numbers for your home, count every bulb and its wattage, estimate daily hours per room, then sum across all fittings. A typical 4-room HDB with 15–20 light points can see significant monthly savings after a full LED switchover.

Annual cost comparison table: several bulb types at the same point

All figures below use the same assumptions: one bulb, 5 h/day usage, 365 days/year, S$0.2972/kWh tariff. Light output is approximately equivalent (~800 lm) across all rows.

Bulb type Actual watts kWh/year Annual electricity cost (S$) Saving vs incandescent (S$/year)
Incandescent (~800 lm) 60 W 109.5 32.54
Halogen (~800 lm) 46 W 83.9 24.94 7.60
CFL (~800 lm) 14 W 25.6 7.60 24.94
LED (~800 lm) 9 W 16.4 4.87 27.67
Note

These are per-bulb figures. Multiply by the number of light points in your home to estimate whole-home savings. Tariff is per SP Group Q2 2026; it changes quarterly. Always check your latest bill.

Other factors: colour temperature, CRI and dimming

Colour temperature (Kelvin)

LEDs come in a range of colour temperatures. The most common for homes are:

Incandescents and halogens are inherently warm (~2 700 K). CFLs are available in warm or cool, but colour rendering can be inconsistent. LEDs give you the widest choice and the most consistent output.

Colour Rendering Index (CRI)

CRI measures how accurately a light source renders colours compared to natural daylight (reference: CRI 100). For most home rooms, a CRI of 80+ is acceptable. For spaces where colour matters — a wardrobe, an art wall, a vanity mirror — look for CRI 90+ LEDs. This detail is worth reading on the box; cheap LEDs often omit the figure, which is itself a warning sign.

Dimming

Standard incandescents and halogens dim on any traditional leading-edge dimmer. LEDs and CFLs dim only if the bulb is explicitly labelled "dimmable" and you have a compatible dimmer switch — often an LED-specific trailing-edge dimmer. Pairing a non-dimmable LED with a dimmer causes flickering, buzzing, or early failure. If you are renovating and want dimmable lighting throughout, confirm compatibility between your LED brand and your dimmer at the time of purchase.

Warning

Do not assume "dimmable dimmer + any LED = works". Mismatched pairings are a common source of flicker complaints and premature bulb failure. Ask your electrician or supplier to confirm compatibility.

Lifespan and replacement cost

Lifespan matters as much as electricity cost. Running the same 5 h/day assumption:

Over a 10-year period, you would buy roughly 18 incandescent bulbs, 6 halogens, 2 CFLs, or 1 LED for the same light point. The sticker price of the LED is almost always offset many times over by avoided purchases — plus the hassle of changing bulbs in ceiling fittings.

Singapore-specific context

Singapore's tropical environment runs air-conditioning heavily, which makes any heat-generating light source doubly inefficient: incandescents and halogens emit around 90% of their energy as heat, adding to the cooling load. LEDs run far cooler — a meaningful secondary benefit in an air-conditioned home.

Singapore's regulated electricity tariff is reviewed quarterly by the Energy Market Authority (EMA) and distributed by SP Group. As of Q2 2026, the household tariff is 29.72 ¢/kWh inclusive of GST. Check the SP Group website or your latest utility bill for the current rate before doing your own calculations.

If you are planning your lighting layout during a renovation, visit the Balestier Road cluster (traditionally Singapore's main lighting and bathroom showroom district) or major home-improvement retailers for a wide range of LED fittings — see our guide on where to buy renovation materials in Singapore. When choosing finishes and materials for the same renovation, the renovation materials guide covers the full framework.

If you are also thinking about aircon efficiency alongside lighting — the two together account for the bulk of most households' electricity bills — see how many indoor units a multi-split system can run.

Practical buying guide

When buying LEDs in Singapore, look for:

Planning your lighting zones before renovation — which rooms get warm white, which get neutral, where accent lighting goes — is much easier when you can visualise the space at real scale. StoreySG lets you experiment with room layouts and finishes in your actual floor plan before any fittings go up.

Design it in StoreySG

Upload your floor plan and design right in the browser — no install, no gaming PC. Edit by natural language, keep 2D and 3D in sync at true millimetre scale, and export a CAD-ready DXF, render-ready 3D, or a furniture list.

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Frequently asked questions

How much electricity does an LED save compared to a 60 W incandescent?

A 9 W LED produces roughly the same ~800 lm as a 60 W incandescent. At 5 h/day and Singapore's Q2 2026 tariff of S$0.2972/kWh, the incandescent costs about S$32.54/year per bulb versus S$4.87 for the LED — a saving of roughly S$27.67 per bulb per year. Use the formula kWh/year = watts × hours/day × 365 ÷ 1 000 to run the numbers for your own usage.

What is the current electricity tariff in Singapore?

As of Q2 2026 (April–June 2026), SP Group's regulated household tariff is 29.72 cents/kWh inclusive of GST. The tariff is revised quarterly by EMA — check your latest SP Group bill or the SP Group website for the current rate.

What colour temperature LED should I choose for my bedroom?

Warm white (2 700–3 000 K) is the most comfortable choice for bedrooms — it closely matches the familiar glow of incandescent bulbs. Neutral white (3 500–4 000 K) suits kitchens and study areas. Cool white or daylight (5 000–6 500 K) is best kept to workspaces rather than sleeping areas.

Can I use any LED with my dimmer switch?

No. You need a bulb explicitly labelled 'dimmable' and a compatible dimmer — usually an LED-specific trailing-edge dimmer. Using a standard leading-edge dimmer with a non-dimmable LED causes flickering, buzzing or early failure. Confirm compatibility with your supplier or electrician before buying.

How long does an LED bulb actually last?

Most LEDs are rated at 15 000–25 000 hours. At 5 hours of use per day, a 20 000-hour LED lasts about 10–11 years. Over the same period, you would replace an incandescent roughly 18 times and a halogen roughly 6 times. The longer lifespan is a major part of the total cost saving.

What is CRI and does it matter for home lighting?

CRI (Colour Rendering Index) measures how accurately a light source reproduces colours, on a scale to 100. For most rooms CRI 80+ is fine; for wardrobes, vanity mirrors or art walls where colour accuracy matters, look for CRI 90+. Cheap LEDs often omit this figure on the packaging — treat that as a warning sign.

Electricity cost figures are illustrative calculations based on stated assumptions. Tariff data sourced from SP Group Q2 2026; verify the current rate on your bill before making purchasing decisions.